Continuing with my trip report for the 4-29 January 2025 cruise aboard the NCL Jade.
Day 16 – Panama City
Of course, I neglected to grab everything when I cleared my cabin at 8:15 – the magnetic hooks I had on the door to hang my hat and lanyard got left behind. Such is life. Being on the B2B continuation, I was able to leave both bags for my cabin steward to move to the new room. Very convenient. Breakfast in the Grand Pacific called for a change – I knew I needed food in my belly. Two eggs over easy, English muffin toasted, bacon, juice, fruit plate, coffee. Then up to the Atrium where I queued up and was given my new cabin key.
Joy had followed a similar path, and we met in front of Starbucks in the Atrium. We headed off the ship, our “Still on Vacation” stickers waiving us through long inspection queues and headed outside. Having booked Martin, a private driver, for the day, we needed to get clear of the port proper as he wasn’t able to enter the grounds. So we hoofed it about 10-15 minutes in blazing sun before we spotted Edier, our driver just beyond the security gate. (Martin had an emergency, and arranged his replacement.)
Crossing the Bridge of the Americas, we stopped for the de rigueur photo opportunity of waterside shots of the Panama sign, the skyline and the bridge. We headed to the Goethel Monument in the old barracks area, where an older locomotive was on display with a statue depicting the canal diggers nearby. Edier drove through the former US military campus, still pristinely maintained, before climbing through a cloverleaf and joining the traffic south back to the city. Once we passed the maintenance workers taking up one lane, traffic moved smoothly.
In the old city, Edier found a parking spot, and we stopped first at the Church of St. Joseph where the baroque altarpiece had been gold plated, filling a large arch in the sanctuary. Legend has it that it survived the pirate attack in Old Panama in 1671. Leaving the nave, we passed a display of 10 old wooden statues depicting the Apostles. This led into a long room where a Nativity model filled tables along three walls.
Leaving, we began walking down a street. We noticed the open windows of a bar, which splashed color vibrantly. Decorated to the max, we snapped away with pictures, expressing curiosity.
Several doors down and across the street, an elaborate façade stood, its entrance restricted by a tall locked iron gate. Inside, the former floor of the now demolished building had been Astroturf’d and tents erected to host private events and city functions.
Entering the Metropolitan Archcathedral Basilica of Santa María la Antigua, midday Sunday Mass was underway. While I typically do not explore a church when services are active, the rear and sides aisle were clear for tourist photographs and I bent my rule. I was returning to the cathedral, as it had been closed after renovations in late 2018 awaiting a visit by Pope Francis. While I didn’t get a picture of the cathedra, I did snap one of the Papal chair. The cathedral faces west out into Independence Square, which has well established trees at its corners: I had to scramble to achieve that better picture than the 2018 with the protective fence encircling the building.
Our next stop was the MOLA Museum, dedicated to the Mola textiles of the Guna Yala people, who are the indigenous people of the San Blas Islands. While strolling through multiple displays, I recalled the small tapestry my parent had brought back to New Jersey from their trip to these islands off the Panamanian coast. I found it mildly interesting, but saw how it might appeal more to someone with an interest in textiles or native culture.
Two blocks and we approached the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced, where I stopped briefly at the exposition chapel at street level to say a few prayers (Mom and Grandpa.) The church itself has a brown stone façade set between two white belltowers, up a flight of stone steps. Inside, people sat in pews praying before Our Lady of Mercy, the statue above the gold and dark wood altarpiece. Mass would be offered in 10 minutes. We passed through the cloister, up a flight of stairs into the Treasury (collection of church vessels used in services) and Museum, including another extensive Nativity diorama.
Back outside, we passed through Independence Square where we ran into several of fellow passengers who were exploring the Old Town. Back to the car, Edier took us to the northeast along the waterfront. He queried us as to whether we would like to visit the Canal Information Center at the Miraflores Locks, and we both passed in favor of exploring the ruins of Panamá Viejo. On arrival, Edier headed to get us admission tickets, while I took pictures of a bird resting on a statue.
Admission granted us access to the second-floor museum. After passing a huge diorama of how the original settlement might have looked, an open door to the balcony afforded a great shot of the ruins of the Catedral Viejo de Santa María la Antigua. We passed through the extensively informative displays somewhat quickly, anxious to get out climbing through the ruins.
Scampering around, I took shots of from the base of the tower, broadside, and from out passed the entrance to the nave. Stairs led up the tower, so I got shots out into the ocean and back to the skyline of the modern city. We both agreed that this was the coolest part of our tour.
Returning into the new city, Joy asked if we could grab a quick bite somewhere, and we stopped at a “almost fast food” restaurant. We both got gyros and water. Our next stop was the Santuario Nacional del Corazón de María. I’d included two significant religious sites on my wish list, and we arrived there as late afternoon Mass was about to start. I quickly made a tour of the nave, and then checked out the crypt – columbarium. We ventured out into the garden below the church, discovering several caged parrots who posed.
Our final itinerary stop was the Basílica de Don Bosco. Large, bright, airy, originally built as an oratory to educate the population, it is named for an Italian Salesian priest Giovanni Bosco who died in 1888. White arched walls and a flat coffered gold ceiling, mosaics adorn many surfaces. Stained-glass windows told the story of his life, while the light pouring through the clerestory windows intrigued me to search for a way to the gallery. (Locked.) Off to the side of the street entrance was a small chapel with an effigy of the saint installed on the 200th anniversary of his birth.
As Edier wended his way back, he offered to allow us to walk the street of hats to the French Square where we had a great view of the Jade across the harbor.
To the interior was the striking Pandora Building, and off to the right the PanAmerican Bridge. Joy requested a market stop, to pick up snacks, and I joined her in getting a few items for the room. Heading back, we were held up in traffic as there was a police action at one of the parks on Naos Island. Once clear, we left Edier at 6:30 with our thanks, heading through the terminal and ship security.
Joy headed up a flight to her new cabin, while I had to climb a few flights to mine. My luggage had arrived, so after a shower, I unpacked. I was missing my Latitude perks card (free laundry, specialty dining) so I headed down to Guest Services to collect it, and get my new status as Sapphire included on my room card. Feeling hungry but not wanting a formal meal, I climbed to O’Sheehan’s and had a double blue cheese burger with cole slaw, as I’d given up on getting really crispy fries.
Day 17 – Panama Canal Crossing II
Actually, the ship considered this to be day 2 of the second leg for non-B2B passengers. Seated in Pacific Grand for breakfast of oatmeal, I took a (not very clear) shot of the mule out the window as we moved through the first of the Miraflores locks.
About an hour later, I was up on an upper deck as we approached the second set. A brilliantly beautiful day, I had a great view of the lock with the Centennial Bridge in the background. As two days earlier, cables were hauled up and secured to the ship as we slowly moved into the lock. Once inside and the rear gates closed, the ship gradually rose 41-feet until the forward gates could be opened. The Jade edged out of the lock and was soon passing under the bridge which so much reminded me of (recently viewed) Sunshine Highway in St Petersburg, Florida and Pont de Normandie in Honfleur, France.
Having passed under the Centenial Bridge at 11am, I joined fellow passengers in Spinnaker for a Q&A where I ran into Joy. Concluding before noon, we headed downstairs together and had seated lunch in the dining room. Scallops, spinach salad, lasagna.
Climbing back topside after lunch, I had to walk through the Garden Café as I headed forward to document our passage. About 2 we were leaving Gatun Lake to enter the first of three in the series of locks. Ahead in the distance was the Puente Atlántico, heralding our return to the Caribbean. In less than 90 minutes we were steaming out to sea, while I took a few pictures of the underside of the bridge. By 4pm, Colon was off to starboard as an open sea beckoned.
A quick shower, applying lotion to my sunburned calves, I met my new cabin steward Yu. Then to Spinnaker for the solo meeting. Wen, a professor from Salt Lake with whom I’d sailed a year earlier, was aboard. Our hostess was Emily, with whom we’d spent some time on the previous leg. There were about 50 in the group (a dozen holdovers), and they headed off to dinner together while I headed to my first of 4 specialty dines this segment, this time in La Cucina. My choices included pear, walnut and gorgonzola salad, meat lover’s pizza and salmon Fra Diavolo, with glasses of sangiovese and tempranillo.
Day 18 – Cartagena
With an arrival time of 10am, I was able to have served breakfast, and it was a shashuka day! Sharing a table with Steve, a New Yorker retired from trains and now living outside Philadelphia, the slow service was acceptable, given the timing. And fortunately, we didn’t run into the same issues with the pier this time in Cartagena, arriving and getting cleared on time. In fact, I was off into the duty free area 15 minutes early, strolling past the parrots having seen the new city across the bay in the blazing sunshine.
Yuliza found me, called Orlando, and soon we were heading up the hill to the Convent of Santa Cruz de la Popa. Located on the highest peak overlooking the city, it afforded a spectacular view. Included within the complex was the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, a shrine to the city’s patron saint. A massive altarpiece of gold on burnt umber featured the statue bearing a crown given by Pope John Paul II during his visit. I continued through the available spaces, enjoying the calmness of the cloister garden, the views out the other side overlooking the Cienaga de la Virgen, an enclosed bay to the east.
Descending the curving roads, our next stop was the Fuerte San Felipe de Barajas. Set on a rise to the west of the convent, it appeared to be a major tourist and locals destination. With a queue about 10-15 minutes long for tickets to access the fortress, I opted out, not wanting to spend an hour walking about, surrounded by thick stone walls.
So after a half dozen photos, I located Orlando and we set off for the Old City. After crossing a causeway, the old walls of the city encircled the point of land. Orlando navigated the busy narrow streets, pointing out places of interest, and stopping briefly on the Plaza de Bolivar for me to snap a few pictures of the cathedral. He suggested that I proceed on foot, setting a time for me to call him to rendezvous.
Crossing the street, I entered the Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría. Relatively narrow (to its length and height), high arches defined three aisles supporting the ribbed wooden ceiling. Statues rested on the black-and-white diamond-patterned floor, with two larger placed outside a locked gated side entrance representing John and Matthew as Evangelists. After a bit of a search, I found the Stations high up on the walls of the side aisles, framed bas relief carved out of stone or plaster and painted.
Behind the altar, where the old High Altar would have been, sat a leather-backed armchair, its carvings indicating it was the cathedra. It, curiously, was set in a niche, seemingly tucked away. A priest wearing a red chasuble came out and began Mass, so I returned to the streets.
The street in front (west) of the main entrance to the cathedral is narrow, one-way, and is opposite a two-story building with retail shops off the sidewalk. The street along the south side is unadorned stone and brick in concrete. The main façade has half columns forming lintels, while in rich umber and gold colors cover the tall domed belltower to the north. Cattycorner is the park, filled with mature majestic trees. I had known that finding the better shot would be difficult, but the smartphone came through with a nice representative shot, admittedly with a bit of parallax distortion.
With my goal achieved, I began strolling the streets, my engineering-background turning to observing and appreciating architecture. A World Heritage Site, the old town of Cartagena is well kept, clean and safe. Obvious pride has the property owners putting forth a pleasant façade for the numerous visitors. I reached the walls overlooking the harbor, and notices that each opening was given a name, most often a saint. From the battery on its walls, old cannons point out over the water.
Continuing back at street level, I began looking for a facility. Figuring I might have to get lunch, I began focusing on eateries. Coming to a corner, I spotted a bar and figured a local beer might hit the spot, and serve my other purpose as well. Well, seated at the bar sampling rums were Bill and Joy from the ship. (Bill coordinated the Meet and Greet and the Pub Crawls, with Joy’s assistance.) They invited me to join them, as they were on a (“shopping”) break from their ship excursion walking tour of the town. We tried a few rums (Ron Gobernador 12 anos and La Hechicera) and they had to rejoin their group. I stayed, had another sample and went upstairs to the baños. Friendly barkeepers, I neglected to get its name.
Back wandering, I spanned the Plaza de los Coches, the plaza in front of the Santuario de San Pedro Claver (closed) and finally decided the rendezvous time was approaching, and I located a small café near the Military Museum and ordered a Club Columbia beer (in bottle) and sat in dappled shade. Texting Orlando, I gave him my location, on the Plaza de Santa Teresa and relaxed. Within minutes he was approaching me, and we walked through a gate in the fortification wall and got into the car.
Harkening back on Joy’s marketing stop in Panama, I asked if he would stop at a market so I could get some local coffee. I picked up several bags, as well as chocolate bars and some nibbles for the crew. Then back to the port where I wandered past passengers from several ships ogling the birds on display.
After a shower, I headed to the rear of Deck 12 where I ran into a couple from Amsterdam – she originally from Pensacola, who I asked to join the pub crawl the next day. My notes get vague, written near midnight, stating I did the solo gathering, had dinner with the group, and then hung out with several couples at Tankard. I suspect I again closed the bar. Oh, my liver!
Day 19 – at sea
Lots of ship activities, and I have less than a dozen pictures, all taken with the smart phone, to show for it. I started with breakfast in the dining room, and it took 35 minutes for the wait staff to bring me my bowl of oatmeal.
After checking for the Meet and Greet in the Bistro, I climbed to find that the puzzles were repeating from the previous leg, so I checked Spinnaker, which was empty. Back to Bistro and the gathering was underway. Most of the higher officers, including Captain Robert, were there, as well as 50+ passengers. After a brief stop in my cabin to ask Yu for egg-crate padding as the beds are too firm, I was off to a quick lunch of two orders of chicken wings and a pub hot dog at O’Sheehan’s.
The Latitude party was next, up in Spinnaker, followed by the second pub crawl. The Dutch couple were there with a second Dutch couple, and I made a date with Vicki, a dental hygienist from Toronto to have dinner that evening at Teppanyaki.
When the crawl ended, I headed to the cabin for a brief break, changing to long pants and a collared shirt for my date. Emily hosted the solos, and after the group left for dinner downstairs, Vickie and I headed to the Mojito bar for drinks.
We squeezed in early into Teppanyaki, joining three other couples. We decided to try their signature drinks, a shaku-shaku and a wasabi cocktail, as we’d already mixed too many different alcohols at the crawl. We had a good meal, albeit I was staying away from shellfish.
She joined me after dinner at Tankards for a sambuca, while I had Spanish whisky that Jay had found, which he was ready to remove from the inventory. The Galveston single malt whisky was a double sherry cask finish offering, with a bit more heat than I’d been drinking, so it got 3 ice cubes rather than the 2 I usually requested.
Day 20 – Falmouth
Arrival at 7am, my private driver to pick me up at 9. There was some confusion, as I’d booked with a second firm, but, unable to prepay, I had found Montego Bay City Tour and completed a booking with them. So when I finally figured out where private cars would be located (after wandering in the lovely large bricked-over duty free shopping area), Desmond was there with a sign with my name. By 9:15 we were underway from the Falmouth port heading towards Montego Bay. [Palmer, from the other firm, called to ask where I was. That’s when I realized I had double booked.]
It is about 70km to Montego Bay from the port, along the north coast of Jamaica. To the right, the water side, the view changed from a resort to an open field, scrub forest to abandon partial buildings. The road itself was in good condition, with a side access road for local traffic. Off to the left the land rose to heavily wooded hills, with various commercial buildings filling in the foothills. There are 4 cathedrals on Jamaica, but only Montego Bay on the north coast. So my 5 hour tour was designed to explore in and around Montego Bay.
Desmond took me south up one of the hills to view a more exclusive housing enclave. With great views, the houses were built with concrete block with multi-level balconies and clay-tiled peaked roofs. Fences and gates abound, showing a need for security. Most had spectacular views out to the Caribbean and east Cuba (about 60 miles away.) Back to the highway, we passed the airport before entering Montego Bay proper.
Desmond drove through a gate, pointing out multiple schools (grade school, intermediate, high school), a hospital and pulled into the back of a low rectangular building. After getting permission to park while I exited, I learned I was at the Cathedral of the Most Blessed Sacrament.
My entry from opposite the sacristy at the sanctuary end was a surprise. A good-sized rectangular space, stained-glass windows between shuttered openings lined the upper portion of the nave walls. No lights were on, so the darkness of the long wooden pews separated by a wide center aisle and the solid lower walls lent a somber feeling. The flat ceiling was painted white, with support beams the Papal yellow I’d seen in Isamael in Mexico in March 2015. Turning to the sanctuary, a green banner announced the 2025 Jubilee Year; it was behind a highbacked wooden armchair, which, due to being on a raised platform, proved to be the cathedra. On the wide altar table, the sacrament was in exposition in a gold monstrance.
Opposite from where I had entered, a recessed area was set aside as the Eucharistic chapel, which had a full wall of stained-glass panels lined up over shuttered openings. The baptismal font was in that space as well. The reredos of the chapel is beautiful: six panels of hammered brass depicting aspects of the Virgin Mary, with a crucifix in the center. As I walked to the main entrance, my eyes were adapting to the lower light levels, and I appreciated the simplicity.
Out the door, a microwave tower on the rise caught my eye, before I turned around and viewed out over Montego Bay itself. The exterior façade is very rectilinear, the only flourish being the contrast of the dark shutters of the windows and doors to the pale yellow of the walls.
Passing through the nave, I noticed the orthodox icon crucifix which hangs over the altar. In more and more churches, I’m finding elements of the Eastern Churches being used. My next trip heads to the Balkans, with many more Orthodox churches, so it should be interesting.
Out the door I’d entered, Desmond was waiting for me.
He drove down into the city itself, pausing only when traffic halted. Out the window I was able to see a monument to the freedom fighters for the island’s independence, government buildings, a hospital. Making a turn, we began passing open air street vendors in front of brick-and-mortar shops with clothing items for sale hanging out front.
Next we headed towards the marina and the resort areas. Desmond’s wife called, and, after determining our nearby proximity, asked him to get her lunch. So we stopped by a fruit vendor to get a to-go box, which he carried across the street to the security gate. We then began to wend our way back towards the port. About half-past twelve, he pulled off the road at Scotchies Jerk Center an open-air dining establishment with no frills. We queued up to order jerk chicken and a beer, which we ate out under a palapa in view of the bar. Even the dogs were mellow, not begging until we were packing up the waste.
Crossing an alley, we went into the gift shop, as I wanted to get some of the hot sauce. The sales assistant was good, as I left with a small bottle of rum, a t-shirt and two bottles of sauce. Desmond dropped me where he’d picked me up about 2, and I strolled through the duty-free area only varying my path to be in the shade. Clearing security, I didn’t have to leave my booze, and I headed up to my cabin. Dropping the camera and switching to shorts, I found a shady spot on deck and did email until our 4pm departure. Back to my cabin, I backed up the photos and took a brief nap.
Up to Spinnakers for the solo gathering, and then hung out with Kim, Vicki and the 2 Kevins before we headed to Cagney’s for dinner. No notes all day, but the phone photos show I had the baked onion soup, the crab cake, a filet mignon with green peppercorn and chimichurri sauces. I’m guessing, but it looks like an apple tart with vanilla ice cream for dessert. My afterthought notes from the next day say I joined Bill and Joy at Tankards afterwards.
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